Tasmania: Hobart

We woke up to a brisk sunny day today and after packing our stuff, we headed out on a walking tour of the city. Not too long after we started we were distracted by the Tasmania Museum which had an interesting exhibit on the local Aboriginals and a large exhibit on Antarctic Expeditions (most of which depart from Hobart).  From there we wandered over to the no longer operating Henry Jones IXL Jam Factory (so named because Mr. Jones felt he excelled at everything), one of the oldest buildings in the port area. The structure has since been converted to a hotel and series of shops. In one we found some of the most interesting Aboriginal works on canvas that we have seen, unfortunately a bit out of our price range.

Moving on in our tour we crossed the wharf over to Battery Point. This area houses many homes on the Historic Trust list. The streets are equally as historic. Since our bed and breakfast was a little lacking on the breakfast in the morning, we stopped for a mid-morning pick up at a french bakery. Once full and caffeinated, we moved along wandering the streets. Winding our way down to Salamanca Place we wandered in and out of the shops taking in the local crafts many made of local wood.   On Saturdays a huge market takes place here, but we were unable to make this.  Soon we passed Knopwood's Retreat, Hobart's oldest pub, we went in to check out the place and settled at the bar for a pot of beer.

For lunch we decided to head back to the wharf.  Looking into the water along the way you could see dozens of starfish hanging out in the shallow water. Fish Frenzy was our lunch destination. We were hoping for fish and chips and this place came highly recommended. Its reputation was well-earned, we agreed this was the best fish and chips either of us had ever eaten.

From here, we collected our car and headed up to Mt. Wellington. This is the peak (4170 ft) that overlooks and dominates the city.  You can drive to the top to take in views of the city and on a clear day see all the way to the northern tip of Tasmania.   They had a nice enclosed observation point set up, good thing too since it was so windy and cold at the top.

We ended our day at the Lark Distillery where we partook in a single malt whisky tasting. The bartender told us how the peat of Tasmania is more floral based and how that affects the taste of the scotch. A good way to warm up before our final dinner: rock lobster!

Tasmania: Styx Valley

Today we got an early start and headed to the southeast part of the state into the World Heritage Area. Our destination was to reach the "Valley of the Giants" where the tallest trees in the southern hemisphere can be found. On our way we passed through numerous fields of hops (Tas is the largest producer of hops in the southern hemisphere). We arrived at the turnoff for the Big Tree Reserve and found it to be bright and sunny as we made the turnoff onto the dirt road. The Reserve is in the midst of one of the larger logging areas in the state and we were confronted by huge logging trucks at break neck speeds on these narrow, windy roads. Best not get in their way.

Once we reached the actual reserve part of the forest a big storm cloud pulled up, it is a rain forest after all. So we put our hoods up on our rain jackets and headed out of the track that had been built to guide people to Big Tree and Bigger Tree, so creatively named. These being the tallest at approx. 320ft, shorter only to the Redwoods and Sequoias of the northern hemisphere, both of which we had the luxury of seeing during our residence in California. These trees are of the swamp gum variety. Magnificent to look at. After our time spent being awed by the forest we headed across the road and took a short hike to the Styx River which runs through the area.

Back in the camper, we headed back the way we came. This time we stopped at Mount Field National Park. Easily accessible from Hobart, this is a busy park. With that in mind we selected one of the longer hikes in hopes of keeping off the beaten track. Our trail was filled with swamp gums, myrtle and sassafras trees, as well as Matt's favorite, the tree fern. The trail also covered a number of waterfalls along the way including Russell Falls, the signature of the park. Once we had returned, we were feeling a bit peckish and decided to hit the riverside tea room on our way out for a Devonshire tea. Delicious!

We made it back to Hobart just in time for the visitor's center to be closed, so we went off a recommendation from a fellow traveler for accommodation for the night. All we really wanted was a nice hot shower and a comfy bed anyways. We were able to achieve that, but not much else in the place we stayed. Fortunately, we were walking distance from the Harbour, so once we had showered and changed we headed out to find a nice meal for the evening. Being Sunday, most things were closed. We ended up at a place right on the wharf where you picked your fish and they grilled it right there. It wasn't anything fancy, but it was some of the best tasting fish we've had. A good way to start our time in Hobart.

Tasmania: Pirates Cove

The cold chilly Tasmanian air didn't stop us this morning from waking up before the sun rose and scrambling out on the rocks to the edge of the sea.  We pulled on our hats and prepared to take in the view and a few pictures.  The sky turned bright pink before the sun cleared the clouds and struck the rocks turning them an unbelievable shade of burnt orange.  After taking as many pictures as our cold fingers would let us, we headed back to the van for warm tea and breakfast and to plan our route for the day.  Our goal was to make it down to the Tasman Peninsula by evening.

On our way out of town we snapped a few more pictures of the sun on the turquoise waters and white beaches.  After reaching St. Helens we stopped at the grocery store to replenish our dwindling supplies.  Then off east to Pyengana where the Pyengana Dairy Company has been producing cheese since the early 1900s.  We dropped in at the Holy Cow Cafe, next to the dairy company, to taste the cheese.  Since it was drizzling, we decided to have a cuppa before hitting the road.  It just so happened that they were having a coffee and cake special.  After stuffing ourselves and loading up with local cheeses we were back on the road with a full day of driving ahead of us.

We enjoyed the views as we drove back down the coast stopping at Bicheno, a seaside town, to stretch our legs.  Our next stop was at the Milton Vineyards at 42 degrees South latitude for wine tasting.  We had their pinot noir at dinner a few nights before and decided to taste their other wines.  The winery was situated on a hill overlooking a pond, very picturesque.  We left after a brief visit, but not without buying a couple of bottles to enjoy later.

We reached the Tasman Peninsula in the late afternoon.  Driving toward Tasman National Park, we hoped to do some hiking along the sea cliffs before it was too dark.  We searched for the hike recommended in the guide book, but could not find the turn off.  Instead we went to see the natural formations the Arch and the Devil's Kitchen.  While wandering around the area we found the beginnings of a hike, so in great need of some exercise we decided to take this trail instead.  Luckily it too meandered along the cliff's edge with spectacular views along the way.

It was nearing dark when we returned to the camper, but there was enough daylight to drive over to the Blowhole and watch the ocean water rushing down a tunnel then exploding out as a powerful spray.  On the way we drove through Doo Town, a little village of cottages nestled in the hills where each house is named using the word "Doo" in the name.  For instance one home was named "Love Me Doo" while another was "Thistle Doo Me".

Now that it was dark we decided it was best to get some dinner and find a spot to stay for the night.  Driving back along Pirates Cove, there was a beach that was home to Blue Penguins, we stopped to see if we could spot a few.  Just when we decided it was too cold and windy and started heading back to the camper, the rush began.  We squatted down and remained still.  We waited and watched as the rush of little penguins made their way to their homes for the night.  They were a bit skittish so we had to be perfectly hidden just so they would walk past.  Just when we thought they had made it home for the night we headed out, but at the top of the hill there were several gathered and we had to sneak through the fence without letting any get out onto the road, or stepped on!  What a cool experience.

Tasmania: Bay of Fires

We woke up to a refreshingly cool morning, preceding a nice brisk fall day.  For some reason I felt compelled to get up an go for a run.  I was a bit under dressed in my shorts and t-shirt, so I never really warmed up, so it turned into a slog.  The highlight was jogging down the beach of the bay for the final 1km.  We had breakfast and tea in the camper and then headed out to see the lighthouse in the park.  We took a little stroll along the cliffs before continuing our drive up the coast. The next planned stop was St. Helens and the Bay of Fires.  This bay was named for the Aboriginal campfires burning along the shore as an explorer sailed past in 1773.  We thought it could have been due to the color the rocks get at sunrise and sunset when the light hits the orange colored lichen growing on many of the rocks there.

As we continued up the coast we hit the turnoff for Binalong Bay, the southern point of the Bay of Fires.  It was mid afternoon when we arrived, so we checked out the town beach, found a spot for dinner and then headed out to find a spot to sleep for the night.  Once we had that figured out we drove to the Gardens for a walk along the beach.  We checked out the tide pools and some of the local wildlife until it was close to sunset and the mozzies came out and chased us inside.

Our dinner that night was at Angasi (named after a local oyster).  Situated across the street from the Bay, the view was spectacular, or would have been if it weren't already dark!  Laura started with a glass of Pinot Gris from the Bay of Fires Winery which was delicious.  Our entrees were rock lobster salad and trout chowder.  Both were unlike anything we had tasted.  For mains, I ordered a seafood pasta and Laura, the catch of the day.  Again we cleaned our plates.  We left the restaurant happy and warm and ready to head back to camp for the night.  We hit the sack early because we had big plans to get up and watch the sunrise in the morning.

Tasmania

This was our first day in the southern Australia island state of Tasmania. After picking up our rental car (we opted for a camper-van for this trip) we headed out from Hobart towards the beaches of the east coast. Our goal was to reach Freycinet National Park. Along the way we went through a few small towns nestled up along the bay. In one we stocked our fridge with food and a 4 pack of Tazzie’s Moo Brew dark ale. At Swansea we stopped at Kate's Berry Farm to taste-test the local jams. We sampled several different jams made from rasberries, strawberries, and a few local berries as well. We left with a jar of strawberry jam and a berry milk shake. Prior to arriving in Coles Bay, the entry to the national park, we stopped for a disappointing lunch at the Freycinet Marine Farm. This was billed as an excellent fresh seafood shack. Needless to say we were disappointed with our cold tasting plate of rock lobster, mussels, oysters, and scallops. The only good about this stop was the discovery of rock lobster, which was delicious.

Once in the NP we headed for the hike to Wineglass Bay. The beach at the bay has been ranked as one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world, and it lived up to the hype. It took us about 45 min of hiking up and over a ridge to reach the beach. As you can see in the pictures the bay is an arc of white sand and crystal clear aqua waters. Too bad it was not really warm enough for a swim.

Tazzie is known for its seafood and tonight’s dinner was the start of many wonderful fish dinners. We went to Madge Malloys in Coles Bay. This is a small restaurant run by a local couple. During the day they catch dinner on their boat and at night the husband cooks the day's catch while his wife acts as waitress and hostess. Our meal may go down as the best we have had in Australia. I had a grilled trumpeter fillet and Laura had perch stuffed with crab. One bite of my fish and I was feeling sorry for Laura, I was thinking there is no way her meal can be as good as mine. Then I took a bite of hers, it was as good or better than mine. Wow! we were hooked on the fresh seafood of Tasmania. After dinner we drove our home back to the NP and hunkered down with a few mozzies for the night.

Finding Nemo

We did it, we are now certified divers.  Laura's course was much harder than mine, but we will get to that in a bit.  The seas were much calmer today, although there was still a bit of a swell, so we headed out on an hour boat ride to Egg Rock.  This small island (rock) is in the green zone on the great barrier reef, which means no fishing or collecting of any sort.  It is quite a gem in these parts and we were fortunate to get out there.  Our first anchorage was in a current between a few smaller rocks. We were rocking and rolling pretty good on the boat Laura and I were both feeling the effects when we went into the water.

We started with a surface compass navigation, then descended to the reef, where the effects of the waves disappeared.  After practicing a few more skills we were able to look around a bit.  There was a cave in the wall of the rock, and just inside we found a Wobbegong shark.  It was quite docile and we were able to scratch its back. Back on the surface things were not getting any smoother.  Laura was turning green. Fortunately the skipper moved the boat to the other side of the island, where it was a bit calmer.  We spent two hours between dives; the only thing that lifted Laura's head was the sighting of two turtles off the starboard side.  Although she thought about jumping ship and swimming to the island, she decided to go down for the last dive, just to get off the bloody ship.  When we were all ready to go Laura scooted down from the bow, into her wetsuit and scuba gear and off the boat into the water.

This was to be our best dive of the weekend.  The water was much clearer, up to 10 meters visibility, and after finally getting the feel of SCUBA diving we were able to relax and enjoy the dive.  We finished a few skills to complete the course and then spent 20 min cruising around the reef.  The coral was beautiful with vibrant colors and large patches of anemones with clown fish darting about.  We saw a variety of larger fish including coral trout and a large wrasse (without its normal shark accompaniment.)

Once we were all out of the water we quickly stowed the gear and the boat headed back to shore.  We were near slack tide and the water had really smoothed out, so it was a smooth quick ride home.  Needless to say Laura was very happy to be back on the mainland.

Sea Snakes

Finally after months of waiting out the weather we made it out on to the Great Barrier Reef to finish our SCUBA diving course.  We started the book work back in December and dove in the pool in early January, but the combination of a heavy rainy season, a cyclone, and strong winds had made the open water portion of our dive impossible until this weekend.  We woke up early Saturday morning and went down to the dive shop to pick up our equipment and load the ute (pickup) with air cylinders.  Everyone meet at Rosslyn Bay marina and we packed the equipment on the boat.  Today we were headed to Outer Rock, which is part of the Keppel group of islands. 

The ride out was a bit rough, but we anchored on the leeward side of the island, in a calm cove, where the waves were small.  The first dive of the day was to get us used to being under the water again.  Our dive instructor (Robert) along with another instructor and seven of us students jumped into the water and went for a tour.  The area was primarily stag horn coral and there were numerous small fish darting about.  The highlight of the dive was an Olive sea snake which Robert grabbed and held by its mid-section.  We all took a feel of its skin, which felt just like any other snakes.  Once back on the boat we were informed that it is one of the top 5 most venomous snakes in the world.  Lucky for us they are very docile and will not bite unless aggravated.  

The second dive consisted of mostly skills, we practiced clearing our masks, controlling buoyancy, sharing air and ascending.  By the time we returned to the marina, unloaded the boat, washed the equipment, and went through a dive debrief we were exhausted and ready to head home to bed.

Back in the Saddle

Today was the first day of the road cycling season here in Rocky for me.  (Last weekend was actually the first race.)  I entered into the B grade field for the race.  It was 51 km and we had a small of field of 14 guys.  The race started out into a tailwind (or as it always is, a cross tail) for the first 10K. We were riding pretty hard and at one point I was wondering if I was going to make the finish. The wind was wicked this afternoon (20-30km/hr) and it was hard to find a place to hide and draft in the bunch.  Especially as we turned around and battled the headwind.
Nothing too exciting happened until we went past the start/finish line and onto the part of the course that we would only race once.  It was rolling with some fairly short steep hills.  A friend who I train with had been putting in a bunch of attacks and was struggling up one of the hills (not that I was in much better shape), and I figured he would last a lot longer in the flat sections of the race than I would, so I dropped back to help him over the top.  Once over we had to catch back on and I pretty much pegged my heart rate doing this.  Back in the field I tried to recover, but after we turned around and came back over the hills again I was having some trouble.  I just kept telling myself to hang in there a little longer.  Again through the start finish line and I had recovered a bit.  I decided to ignore my HR monitor because it seemed to be too high for too long already anyhow.  We had been over this part of the race once already so I had a clue what to expect.  I tried to stay out of the wind and save some energy.
When we turned around for the last 10 K to the finish we received a brutal cross head wind.  This made it really hard to draft as we could really only echelon 3 riders across the road (it was narrow and we could only use 1/2 the road.)  At about 9K to go my friend put in an attack.  I figured what the hell and bridged up to him.  I asked him if we were too far out and he thought we should give it a go.  We went about 4K before the group caught up to us going up a hill.  One guy jumped across the gap as we crested and we held a slim lead for another K.  At this point I dropped back into the peloton to rest. 
As we came up to the next hill I thought it was the last before the finish, with a long downhill on the other side.  I was wrong, I had sprinted up to the guy dangling in the front and then realized my mistake and fell back.  From here on out I stayed in the group.  As we swept down the final hill into the last 1000m, I was sitting 2 to 3rd wheel, right where I wanted to be.  Coming into the last 500 meters we were slowly pulling in the lone rider at the front.  I had told myself prior to the race not to sprint too early as it was slightly uphill and into a headwind.  I did not follow my own advice.  I didn't think we had time to catch the rider up the road and I went for the win at about 300 meters.  We quickly surged up the road and caught the rider, but by then all the work I had recently done caught up to me and I could not longer stand and sprint.  I ended up in 5th place.  Not bad, but I wish I could do it over again.
I was surprised on how good my legs were at the end.  It has been awhile since I could stand up and really power out a sprint at the end of the race.  Maybe all the track racing paid off.  Halfway through the race I thought I was not going to finish, by the end I was one of the stronger guys out there.  On a finial note I have to figure out what my lactate threshold HR actually is.  I spent 45 min of the race above 168 bpm, which I thought was near my threshold, but obviously it is higher.  (Sorry no pictures, the camera battery died.)

Dark

Before we went to Melbourne I was really getting back into the road riding scene here in Rocky.  I think I did every early morning ride for a week and a half, clocking around 400K before most people had finished their morning coffee.  Unfortunately as daylight has begun its yearly recede it has become quite dark at 5AM.  The last ride I was on really was not a barrel of laughs.  The roads generally suck around here anyways and trying to ride them in the dark (bright lights help, but it is not the same as sunlight) sucks.  Nothing like hitting potholes that you can't even see.  So, I am pretty much done with the early morning rides.

This afternoon I went out and climbed Mt Archer.  I went up fairly slow, even though my heart rate was pegged somewhere close to my lactate threshold.   I left our house at around 4:30 and by the time I returned near 6 it was nearly dark.  One thing I have to do is get a better headlight, the other is get out on the bike as soon as I get home from work.  I delayed today because it was so bloody hot.  Or maybe I should get used to riding on the rollers.

Melbourne: Day 5

Today was Easter, so after checking out of our hotel (no we didn't stay in the above beauty) we went to Mass at St. Patrick's Cathedral. The Church, completed in 1897, is a beautiful work of architecture.  After Mass we walked around the inside of the church to further view the stonework and the amazing pipe organ that was used during the service.  Next it was time for some food.  We headed to a cafe across from parliament (below) and sat at a sidewalk table for a small brunch (of course we had a glass of champagne to accompany the meal.)

Having some time to kill before heading to the airport, we walked around the city a bit and wouldn't you know we ended up in front of the James Squire Brewery.  I had wanted to taste their stout, Craic, so we split a pot (glass).  Had I known it would be so good I would have bought one for each of us.  But it was time to move on, we walked over to Federation Square and watched a few minutes of a street performer's routine before heading to the airport on the skybus.  (A sculpture outside the brewery, above left, and buildings on Collins St, below.)