Northern Territory: Darwin

Today was Saturday and we had a late evening flight to Denpasar, Indonesia, so we had the whole day to explore the city of Darwin. We awoke after a long, restful, mozzie-free night’s sleep feeling recovered from the heat of the previous day. After storing our luggage in our car we headed out on a walking tour of the city. It started at the Smith Street outdoor mall in front of a historic hotel. We did not get far. Being in the capital of the Northern Territory (where the largest proportion of inhabitants are Aboriginal) we were in a hotbed for Aboriginal art. Numerous galleries lined the streets here displaying work produced by artists of the region, some famous with works selling for thousands and other lesser-known or up and coming artists. Having just come from Kakadu and seeing rock art first hand, we were beginning to have a new understanding of the different types of art produced. So, we spent some time browsing the various shops, searching for a painting.

We eventually found time to continue on the tour, seeing the harbour and the WWII memorial (the US lost ships and men in the harbor in a Japanese bombing.) Most of the historic buildings were destroyed though, since Darwin had suffered devastating damage after Cyclone Tracy over Christmas 1974. That afternoon we learned a great deal about the storm at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. After a quick dinner of fish and chips we headed to the airport to catch our flight to Bali, our first flight out of the country since arriving and our first time in Asia!

Northern Territory: Kakadu National Park

Late in the afternoon on Thursday we finally arrived in Darwin after a long day in airports and airplanes. Following a brief stop at a pharmacy to pickup and inject a vaccine for our trip to Indonesia (Matt's parking lot medicine), we headed out to Kakadu National Park. We arrived in the park after dark and the mozzies were on the prowl, so we had a pint of beer at the hotel bar and headed to sleep.

The next day, we had an early start as Kakadu is huge…20,000 sq km. It is also on the World’s Heritage List, not just for the ecology of the area, but its Aboriginal cultural significance. Technically dry season starts in April, however, this happens to be one of the wettest years on record and many of the roads open only in the Dry were still closed. This meant less of the park to have to cover in a short amount of time.

The focus of the day was to see some of the unique features of the area including the geography, geology and rock art sites. We started in the Yellow Water region which is known for its wetlands. Since much of the access to this area was closed we checked out the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre to learn a bit more about the local Aboriginals. Our next stop was the Nourlangie Region. Here we were able to walk past many rock art sites and a hike to a lookout over the Anbangbang Billabong (a dry season residual lake). The temperatures were already hitting the low 90s with high humidity and the mozzies were out in full force. We began having flashbacks of summer in Rocky, so we decided to head back to the air-conditioned car. After lunch we headed to the East Alligator region which has rainforest in addition to floodplains and more rock art. We attempted a rainforest walk along the East Alligator River, but within 5 minutes we were swarmed with mozzies the size of fruit bats so we decided to head to Ubirr. Here we saw more rock art and climbed a rocky outcrop that overlooked the Nadab floodplain. The view was spectacular. You could still see waters that hadn't yet receded and the rest of the valley floor was emerald green.

It was getting late in the day, so we hit the road to Darwin. On our way out we saw some smoke and fires that are common here during the dry season. These controlled burns have been performed by the Aboriginals for centuries for hunting and environmental management. We arrived at our hotel after dark and took a much needed shower before heading out for a delicious dinner at a Turkish restaurant.

The Rajniks

We had the pleasure of hosting Kitty and Larry (Mom and Dad) for a couple of weeks in May. This gave us the opportunity to show them around Central Queensland. It also gave us an excuse to check out some new places. The first weekend they were here, we drove north toward Mackay to the Eungella National Park. The Broken River runs through this rain forest and is a permanent home to many Platypus. Arriving at dusk, we were just in time to see them head out for their nightly meals. We had enough daylight left to observe them swimming and diving under the water for about an hour. They were a little tough to spot at first since they come out in the worst light and they are not that big (50cm at the very largest). Once we got the hang of looking for the ripples in the water and used the binoculars, they were much easier to spot. Staying at a cabin right at the river we were able to enjoy a delicious evening meal and I was able to get up bright and early (while everyone else slept) to view the morning antics of the little guys. I also had the opportunity to see the bright blue kingfisher bird which is commonly found around the platypus.

We also had the chance to go back to Great Keppel Island. Matt and I hadn't been there since the heat of the summer, so the cooler temperatures made it nicer for further exploration of the island. We started off with a glass bottom boat tour around the island when we arrived. This tour educated us on the names of the different types of coral found locally and the fish as they swam under our boat. Afterwards, we hiked over to Monkey Beach where there is reef not far off the beach. We snorkeled until we were thoroughly chilled by the water and saw some pretty amazing corals. We also convinced Mom and Dad to try snorkeling for the first time. They loved it!

The Dreamtime Cultural Center is Rockhampton's museum dedicated to educating people on the Central Highland Aboriginals and Torres Strait Islanders. The local indigenous are well known for their stencil art some of which was on display. The tour discussed the history of the people, their mythology and tools of their day to day life. We finished off with an education on playing the didgeridoo and throwing a boomerang.

There were a few other spots we checked out worth mentioning as well. One was the Cooberrie Park Wildlife Sanctuary where we were able to pet a kola, hold a Komodo dragon and take photos with a python. The Central Queensland Military Museum was full of memorabilia from several wars. There was also a good bit of American memorabilia here as General MacArthur chose Rocky as an important military base in the Pacific front of WWII. Finally, the Archer Park Station and Steam Tram Museum has the Purrey Steam Train, which they operate every Sunday morning, and interesting exhibits on the history of the station and the steam train in Rocky.

A Day at the Races

One thing that is fairly common in Australia is horse racing.  It just so happens that Rockhampton is home to Callaghan Park which is one of "the largest provincial thoroughbred racing Clubs in Queensland".  It is quite a popular way to spend a day for an Aussie, dressed to the nines at the track.  So, today Laura and I decided to put on our finest and go to the track to watch the the horses races ourselves.  If only we had proper hats to wear, then maybe we could have competed with the locals!

There were 6 races on for the day and we arrived with enough time before the first race to check out the horses and place our bets.  We didn't have a much of a clue about betting and still don't really, but we managed to do okay.  Laura had a knack for picking winners and came out on top for the day.  I didn't pick a single winner.  The picture of Laura here shows her with a winning ticket in her had waiting for the race to get started.

Stars

Driving back from dinner in Yeppon tonight we marveled at the night sky.  There was a glowing quarter moon and the stars were crystal clear.  The nice thing about a country the size of the US with only 20 million people is there are not too many lights to pollute the night sky.  Even in on the main drag in Yeppon we had a beautiful view of the stars and moon over the ocean.

Tasmania: Hobart

We woke up to a brisk sunny day today and after packing our stuff, we headed out on a walking tour of the city. Not too long after we started we were distracted by the Tasmania Museum which had an interesting exhibit on the local Aboriginals and a large exhibit on Antarctic Expeditions (most of which depart from Hobart).  From there we wandered over to the no longer operating Henry Jones IXL Jam Factory (so named because Mr. Jones felt he excelled at everything), one of the oldest buildings in the port area. The structure has since been converted to a hotel and series of shops. In one we found some of the most interesting Aboriginal works on canvas that we have seen, unfortunately a bit out of our price range.

Moving on in our tour we crossed the wharf over to Battery Point. This area houses many homes on the Historic Trust list. The streets are equally as historic. Since our bed and breakfast was a little lacking on the breakfast in the morning, we stopped for a mid-morning pick up at a french bakery. Once full and caffeinated, we moved along wandering the streets. Winding our way down to Salamanca Place we wandered in and out of the shops taking in the local crafts many made of local wood.   On Saturdays a huge market takes place here, but we were unable to make this.  Soon we passed Knopwood's Retreat, Hobart's oldest pub, we went in to check out the place and settled at the bar for a pot of beer.

For lunch we decided to head back to the wharf.  Looking into the water along the way you could see dozens of starfish hanging out in the shallow water. Fish Frenzy was our lunch destination. We were hoping for fish and chips and this place came highly recommended. Its reputation was well-earned, we agreed this was the best fish and chips either of us had ever eaten.

From here, we collected our car and headed up to Mt. Wellington. This is the peak (4170 ft) that overlooks and dominates the city.  You can drive to the top to take in views of the city and on a clear day see all the way to the northern tip of Tasmania.   They had a nice enclosed observation point set up, good thing too since it was so windy and cold at the top.

We ended our day at the Lark Distillery where we partook in a single malt whisky tasting. The bartender told us how the peat of Tasmania is more floral based and how that affects the taste of the scotch. A good way to warm up before our final dinner: rock lobster!

Tasmania: Styx Valley

Today we got an early start and headed to the southeast part of the state into the World Heritage Area. Our destination was to reach the "Valley of the Giants" where the tallest trees in the southern hemisphere can be found. On our way we passed through numerous fields of hops (Tas is the largest producer of hops in the southern hemisphere). We arrived at the turnoff for the Big Tree Reserve and found it to be bright and sunny as we made the turnoff onto the dirt road. The Reserve is in the midst of one of the larger logging areas in the state and we were confronted by huge logging trucks at break neck speeds on these narrow, windy roads. Best not get in their way.

Once we reached the actual reserve part of the forest a big storm cloud pulled up, it is a rain forest after all. So we put our hoods up on our rain jackets and headed out of the track that had been built to guide people to Big Tree and Bigger Tree, so creatively named. These being the tallest at approx. 320ft, shorter only to the Redwoods and Sequoias of the northern hemisphere, both of which we had the luxury of seeing during our residence in California. These trees are of the swamp gum variety. Magnificent to look at. After our time spent being awed by the forest we headed across the road and took a short hike to the Styx River which runs through the area.

Back in the camper, we headed back the way we came. This time we stopped at Mount Field National Park. Easily accessible from Hobart, this is a busy park. With that in mind we selected one of the longer hikes in hopes of keeping off the beaten track. Our trail was filled with swamp gums, myrtle and sassafras trees, as well as Matt's favorite, the tree fern. The trail also covered a number of waterfalls along the way including Russell Falls, the signature of the park. Once we had returned, we were feeling a bit peckish and decided to hit the riverside tea room on our way out for a Devonshire tea. Delicious!

We made it back to Hobart just in time for the visitor's center to be closed, so we went off a recommendation from a fellow traveler for accommodation for the night. All we really wanted was a nice hot shower and a comfy bed anyways. We were able to achieve that, but not much else in the place we stayed. Fortunately, we were walking distance from the Harbour, so once we had showered and changed we headed out to find a nice meal for the evening. Being Sunday, most things were closed. We ended up at a place right on the wharf where you picked your fish and they grilled it right there. It wasn't anything fancy, but it was some of the best tasting fish we've had. A good way to start our time in Hobart.

Tasmania: Pirates Cove

The cold chilly Tasmanian air didn't stop us this morning from waking up before the sun rose and scrambling out on the rocks to the edge of the sea.  We pulled on our hats and prepared to take in the view and a few pictures.  The sky turned bright pink before the sun cleared the clouds and struck the rocks turning them an unbelievable shade of burnt orange.  After taking as many pictures as our cold fingers would let us, we headed back to the van for warm tea and breakfast and to plan our route for the day.  Our goal was to make it down to the Tasman Peninsula by evening.

On our way out of town we snapped a few more pictures of the sun on the turquoise waters and white beaches.  After reaching St. Helens we stopped at the grocery store to replenish our dwindling supplies.  Then off east to Pyengana where the Pyengana Dairy Company has been producing cheese since the early 1900s.  We dropped in at the Holy Cow Cafe, next to the dairy company, to taste the cheese.  Since it was drizzling, we decided to have a cuppa before hitting the road.  It just so happened that they were having a coffee and cake special.  After stuffing ourselves and loading up with local cheeses we were back on the road with a full day of driving ahead of us.

We enjoyed the views as we drove back down the coast stopping at Bicheno, a seaside town, to stretch our legs.  Our next stop was at the Milton Vineyards at 42 degrees South latitude for wine tasting.  We had their pinot noir at dinner a few nights before and decided to taste their other wines.  The winery was situated on a hill overlooking a pond, very picturesque.  We left after a brief visit, but not without buying a couple of bottles to enjoy later.

We reached the Tasman Peninsula in the late afternoon.  Driving toward Tasman National Park, we hoped to do some hiking along the sea cliffs before it was too dark.  We searched for the hike recommended in the guide book, but could not find the turn off.  Instead we went to see the natural formations the Arch and the Devil's Kitchen.  While wandering around the area we found the beginnings of a hike, so in great need of some exercise we decided to take this trail instead.  Luckily it too meandered along the cliff's edge with spectacular views along the way.

It was nearing dark when we returned to the camper, but there was enough daylight to drive over to the Blowhole and watch the ocean water rushing down a tunnel then exploding out as a powerful spray.  On the way we drove through Doo Town, a little village of cottages nestled in the hills where each house is named using the word "Doo" in the name.  For instance one home was named "Love Me Doo" while another was "Thistle Doo Me".

Now that it was dark we decided it was best to get some dinner and find a spot to stay for the night.  Driving back along Pirates Cove, there was a beach that was home to Blue Penguins, we stopped to see if we could spot a few.  Just when we decided it was too cold and windy and started heading back to the camper, the rush began.  We squatted down and remained still.  We waited and watched as the rush of little penguins made their way to their homes for the night.  They were a bit skittish so we had to be perfectly hidden just so they would walk past.  Just when we thought they had made it home for the night we headed out, but at the top of the hill there were several gathered and we had to sneak through the fence without letting any get out onto the road, or stepped on!  What a cool experience.

Tasmania: Bay of Fires

We woke up to a refreshingly cool morning, preceding a nice brisk fall day.  For some reason I felt compelled to get up an go for a run.  I was a bit under dressed in my shorts and t-shirt, so I never really warmed up, so it turned into a slog.  The highlight was jogging down the beach of the bay for the final 1km.  We had breakfast and tea in the camper and then headed out to see the lighthouse in the park.  We took a little stroll along the cliffs before continuing our drive up the coast. The next planned stop was St. Helens and the Bay of Fires.  This bay was named for the Aboriginal campfires burning along the shore as an explorer sailed past in 1773.  We thought it could have been due to the color the rocks get at sunrise and sunset when the light hits the orange colored lichen growing on many of the rocks there.

As we continued up the coast we hit the turnoff for Binalong Bay, the southern point of the Bay of Fires.  It was mid afternoon when we arrived, so we checked out the town beach, found a spot for dinner and then headed out to find a spot to sleep for the night.  Once we had that figured out we drove to the Gardens for a walk along the beach.  We checked out the tide pools and some of the local wildlife until it was close to sunset and the mozzies came out and chased us inside.

Our dinner that night was at Angasi (named after a local oyster).  Situated across the street from the Bay, the view was spectacular, or would have been if it weren't already dark!  Laura started with a glass of Pinot Gris from the Bay of Fires Winery which was delicious.  Our entrees were rock lobster salad and trout chowder.  Both were unlike anything we had tasted.  For mains, I ordered a seafood pasta and Laura, the catch of the day.  Again we cleaned our plates.  We left the restaurant happy and warm and ready to head back to camp for the night.  We hit the sack early because we had big plans to get up and watch the sunrise in the morning.

Tasmania

This was our first day in the southern Australia island state of Tasmania. After picking up our rental car (we opted for a camper-van for this trip) we headed out from Hobart towards the beaches of the east coast. Our goal was to reach Freycinet National Park. Along the way we went through a few small towns nestled up along the bay. In one we stocked our fridge with food and a 4 pack of Tazzie’s Moo Brew dark ale. At Swansea we stopped at Kate's Berry Farm to taste-test the local jams. We sampled several different jams made from rasberries, strawberries, and a few local berries as well. We left with a jar of strawberry jam and a berry milk shake. Prior to arriving in Coles Bay, the entry to the national park, we stopped for a disappointing lunch at the Freycinet Marine Farm. This was billed as an excellent fresh seafood shack. Needless to say we were disappointed with our cold tasting plate of rock lobster, mussels, oysters, and scallops. The only good about this stop was the discovery of rock lobster, which was delicious.

Once in the NP we headed for the hike to Wineglass Bay. The beach at the bay has been ranked as one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world, and it lived up to the hype. It took us about 45 min of hiking up and over a ridge to reach the beach. As you can see in the pictures the bay is an arc of white sand and crystal clear aqua waters. Too bad it was not really warm enough for a swim.

Tazzie is known for its seafood and tonight’s dinner was the start of many wonderful fish dinners. We went to Madge Malloys in Coles Bay. This is a small restaurant run by a local couple. During the day they catch dinner on their boat and at night the husband cooks the day's catch while his wife acts as waitress and hostess. Our meal may go down as the best we have had in Australia. I had a grilled trumpeter fillet and Laura had perch stuffed with crab. One bite of my fish and I was feeling sorry for Laura, I was thinking there is no way her meal can be as good as mine. Then I took a bite of hers, it was as good or better than mine. Wow! we were hooked on the fresh seafood of Tasmania. After dinner we drove our home back to the NP and hunkered down with a few mozzies for the night.